Is it Leitz Out for Dr. Loosen

Is it Leitz Out for Dr. Loosen?

As much as I love Champagne I may love Riesling even more; maybe. Since I started this project two weeks ago, I’ve wanted to write a column comparing and contrasting the two Riesling’s that dominate the value Riesling category in my wine universe: Johannes Leitz’s, Leitz “OUT” and the Loosen Brothers, “Dr. L.”. Dr. L is a label that people know and recognize but is the Leitz a better wine and ultimately a better value? Let us look into this.

2007 Josef Leitz, Leitz “OUT” Riesling, Rheingau, Germany

Alcohol: 9.5%

Closure: Stelvin (screw-cap)

Price: 12.99

Facts: 100% Rudesheimer Magdalenekreux Kabinett

Accolades: 89+ Wine Library

Johannes Leitz is the leader of this Rheingau estate. A rising star on the German wine scene the “OUT” blew me away.

Flowers but nervous, drier than I expected at least upon opening, lemon peel, lime, rocks, good persistence, lots of flavor, a crisp and focused style, excellent food wine, a drier white with flavor, I wouldn’t call this ‘sweet’, a shade tropical.

From what I’ve read, Leitz bottles off the gross lees. Is this where the body is coming from? The size, the depth? What a value. What a wine.


2008 Loosen Brothers “Dr. L” Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Alcohol: 8.5%

Closure: Stelvin

Price: 11.99

Accolades: #62 on the Wine Spectator’s 2009 Top 100 list of “The Years Most Exciting Wines”, 90 points “Best Value”.

Facts: Dr. Loosen is one of the great estates of the Mosel. “L” is a non-estate wine.

Nose: Pine needle, evergreen, flowers, powder, art clay, river stones, lilac, citrus zest, lemon-grass, tin.

Palate: Faint tropics, lots of lemon, slate, good acidity and focus but lacks drive and depth, second glass is better than the first, the depth and drive are developing, cantaloupe, cantaloupe rind, refreshing, pretty.

The Verdict: At 11.99 the “L” is a great value but I love the “OUT”. The “L” is definitely a step behind in overall depth and complexity, intrigue and form. I understand the production on these wines is different with the “L” dwarfing the “OUT” but we’re talking bottle to bottle.

Although a bottle of the Josef Leitz, Leitz “OUT” may be more difficult to locate it’s worth seeking. If you see it by the glass in a restaurant order it, if you see it on a wine list take it for the first course. Great with salads, sea foods, lighter dishes, sushi, chocolate…

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Last week I had a tasting out a Kokoman. Phil, a chemist who took early retirement from Los Alamos National Labs, referred me to a bottle of 2003 S.A. Prum “Graacher Himmelreich” Spatlese. Two-thousand and three is a controversial year and the wine is six years past vintage. I paid 22.99. This is a class growth bottle from a famous producer and I spent just over twenty bucks. German Riesling Kabinett’s and Spatlese are the best wines under thirty dollars on any shelf. Seek them out.

Warning: This wine smells like butter and freshly baked bread, it is wildly complex and beautiful. If you like your wines otherwise you may want to avoid this producer and others like him.