2002 Nicolas Joly “Les Clos Sacres”, Savennieres, France

I had the good fortune last month of visiting with my parents for a week in Florida. We had wine with two meals.

2002 Nicolas Joly “Les Clos Sacres”, Savennieres, France. The Joly family has a monopoly on one of the worlds greatest white wine vineyards ‘Clos de la Coulee de Serrant’. Planted in 1130 by Cistercian monks the seven hectare (hectare: 2.471 acres) vineyard has been producing wine for almost nine hundred years. Joly began the properties conversion to bio-dynamics in 1980. Bio-dynamics is a radical form of farming made famous by the Austrian Philosopher Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925). Steiner believed the worlds spiritual crisis was due to a lack of nutrition. When asked how humanity could deepen its esoteric life he responded, “Nutrition as it is today does not supply the strength necessary for manifesting the spirit in physical life. A bridge can no longer be built from thinking to will and action. Food plants no longer contain the forces people need for this,” (Agriculture Course, 7). Bio-dynamic practices include the addition of fermented herbal and mineral preparations to homeopathic composts and the use of an astrological sowing and planting calendar. The idea is to re-invigorate the cosmic forces latent in the vegetable kingdom by balancing the farms internal and external processes.

The appellation is Savennieres in France's western Loire valley. Savennieres was granted AC (Appellation Controllee) status in 1952. Savennieres is planted exclusively to the native Chenin Blanc. Chenin which is called Pineau de la Loire locally may be the parent of Sauvignon Blanc. On his web-site, Joly states that the amber color of his wines is due to the inclusion of grapes infected by noble rot and should not be confused with oxidation. The wines undergo partial malolactic fermentation and are racked frequently to encourage contact with oxygen. Before bottling there is no fining or cold stabilization. The cellar and vineyard practices are strictly bio-dynamic. “Les Clos Sacres” is one of three wines made by the estate. It is the only wine bottled which is not designated ‘Grand Cru’.

What to expect: dried orange peel, cheese-rind, apricots, smoke, burning leaves, pine-needles, decomposing Autumn, honey, a pin in an orange.

2003 Chateau Pradeaux, Bandol, France. Bandol is among the elite of French AC’s for red wine production and is one of eight wine zones inside Provence. The grape is Mourvedre, an international variety most likely Spanish in origin, arriving in France after the 16th C. Bandol is Mourvedre’s power-base and it is the only French wine appellation dominated by this grape. The tannic and rustic Mourvedre has an affinity for Grenache and is often blended with Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. It is one of the thirteen permitted varieties in Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

In 1752 Jean Marie Etienne Portalis inherited Chateau Pradeaux from his grandmother. In 1789 the domain was ravaged by the French Revolution and in the late 19th C phylloxera struck the French vineyards. It wasn’t until the second world war that the Chateau was restored. On his web-site Neal Rosenthal, Pradeaux’s U.S. importer has this to say, “The vineyards are cultivated in as natural a manner as possible with reliance on organic methods. In fact, during the spring months sheep are permitted to graze in the vineyards thereby eliminating any need to use herbicides and at the same time providing a natural compost…The wines of Pradeaux are brooding and difficult. Produced on the back of the noble Mourvedre, Pradeaux in its youthful stages is tannic, backward, and sometimes ornery. The wines are not destemmed; ‘elevage’ in large oak foudres can last as long as four years; the essential blend is at least 95% Mourvedre.” The average age of the vines is 35 years. There is no new oak used.

Definitely slow to start, great life ahead of it(?), a bit one-note,the nose was best, field of flowers, degenerative, farm-yard.

P. Lancelot Royer, “Cuvee des Chevaliers”, Blanc de Blancs, Cramant Grand Cru, NV Brut. The Domaine of Lacelot-Royer is located in the village of Cramant; one of Champagne’s seventeen Grand Cru’s. It is a sub-region of the larger Cote de Blancs, one of five districts in Champagne and the most important for Chardonnay. The five hectare Domaine was created in 1960. It’s average annual production is thirty-seven hundred cases. “Cuvee de Chevaliers” is one hundred percent Chardonnay.

Flamboyantly kirsch, with chocolate, lime, chalk, and salt in the corners. A firm golden color, nose like an orchard, cherries and oranges.